Ribeira d'Ilhas in September, and the morning that explains why I keep the room. Read more
RuiNeither a miracle nor a lie. A window. Fine. I was wrong and the old man on the longboard is right.
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Ericeira on weekends, the hospital on weekdays. Nurse, surfer, in that order Monday to Friday.
Ribeira d'Ilhas in September, and the morning that explains why I keep the room. Read more
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What surfing does to a body that has been awake for twenty hours, and why I keep doing it. Read more
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The neighbourhood everyone's discovering, from someone who never left it. Read more
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Ten days waiting for a wave in Morocco, and the one that made the shift worth it. Read more
Taghazout · MoroccoSign in to like or comment.
The last two days in Morocco, on a windy quay, with the boards packed and nothing to prove. Read more
Taghazout · MoroccoSign in to like or comment.