Clean, chest high, eight people. A Saturday, somehow.
RuiEight people on a Saturday in September is a lie or a miracle.
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Ericeira on weekends, the hospital on weekdays. Nurse, surfer, in that order Monday to Friday.
Clean, chest high, eight people. A Saturday, somehow.
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Board waxed, feet sandy, shift in nine hours. This is the deal and I'd sign it again.
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Overhead, hollow, a crowd of people much better than me. Watched from the sand with a bifana and no regrets.
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